From time to time I’ll add some thoughts here about a coastal or beach safety related topic. I write an (almost) regular monthly feature called ‘The Science of the Surf’ for a local commnity news magazine near where I live in the Northern Illawarra (just south of Sydney) called The Illawarra Flame and I’ll post those here as well. If you’ve got a topic you’d like me to talk about, let me know!
Rip Spotting 101
These channelised rips are very common on our beaches and tend to look like narrow, dark green paths through the whitewater – think ‘white is nice, green is mean’. But they are only one type of rip which makes rip spotting tricky.
Waves that sneak up on you
Have you ever set up your towel on the beach, nice and high and dry, and everything is terrific, until you are swamped by a sudden uprush of water. Then things go back to normal. That was an infragravity wave.
How’s your beach trending?
Digital Earth Australia (DEA) Coastlines is a free online dataset created by Geoscience Australia that uses satellite data and some state-of-the-art coastal remote sensing technology to map the typical location of beach shorelines for each year since 1988.
Are we (NSW) at risk of Tsunami?
The eruption of the Tongan undersea volcano on January 15 sent tsunami waves across the Pacific resulting in warnings issued by the Bureau of Meteorology and beach closures along the NSW coast.
A La Nina Summer for NSW
The easiest rule to remember is that because of the higher frequency of storm events, our beaches tend to have less sand and are much narrower during a La Nina.